The Ultimate Guide to Diamond Shapes
If you’ve started shopping for engagement rings, you’ve seen just how many diamond shapes exist. From classic round brilliants, to “fancy shapes” like oval, emerald, cushion, and more, the choices can feel endless.
Once you choose your diamond shape, ring shopping gets a lot easier. We’re breaking down everything you need to know about the most popular shapes to get you one step closer to your dream ring.
What is a Diamond Shape?
Diamond shape refers to the silhouette created by the diamond’s physical form when viewed from above. The classic diamond shape is a round brilliant diamond; all other shapes are called fancy diamond shapes. Fancy shapes include pear, oval, marquise, and more. A diamond’s shape impacts its brilliance, how large it appears, and its price.
Diamond Shape vs Cut
Diamond cuts and shapes might sound similar, but they refer to separate aspects of diamond categorization. If you’ve spent much time diamond shopping, you’ve likely come across these terms and wondered what the difference is. To add to the confusion, the word “cut” can have a few different meanings.
Diamond cut is one of the 4 Cs of diamond quality, and refers to the proportion, symmetry, angle, and polish of the facets. A good-quality cut results in a more brilliant and desirable diamond, and all shapes of diamonds are graded on the quality of their cut. Learn more about the 4 Cs in our diamond guide.
Different shapes of diamonds are often referred to as cuts, such as in “emerald cut diamonds” or “princess cut diamonds”. The cut can also refer to the style of faceting that the shape features. Most diamonds have brilliant-cut facets, but some have step-cut facets.
Keep reading for everything you need to know about the most popular diamond shapes, and what to look for when shopping for a diamond engagement ring.
Round Diamonds
The round brilliant diamond is the classic diamond shape. Round diamonds are a popular choice for engagement rings for their timeless appearance and ability to flatter many finger shapes.
Rounds are the only diamond shape that are graded on cut, polish, and symmetry by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Fancy diamonds are only graded on polish and symmetry.
Round shapes hide color issues and inclusions well, so you can prioritize the carat size and quality of the cut when purchasing these diamonds. However, round diamonds are more expensive per carat than fancy shapes, because more rough diamond material is lost in the cutting process.
Oval Diamonds
The Octavia Oval Solitaire Ring
Oval-shaped diamonds are a popular choice for engagement rings because they appear larger than other shapes of the same carat weight, and the elongated silhouette makes the wearer’s finger appear longer.
Oval cut diamonds are brilliant cut, giving them a similar sparkle to round diamonds. Ovals hide inclusions well, but can show color at warmer color grades. They are also susceptible to the bow-tie effect, which is when the placement of the diamond’s facets causes less light to reflect in the middle, creating a bow-tie shaped shadow.
Emerald Diamonds
Emerald diamonds are an elegant shape with sharp corners and a rectangular silhouette. Their proportions range from balanced to long and thin.
Emeralds have step-cut facets, which creates a hall-of-mirrors effect compared to the sparkle of brilliant-cut diamonds. A similar shape to emerald is the Asscher cut. Asschers feature step-cut facets in a square shape, and they have a higher crown compared to emeralds.
Emeralds are a popular choice because they take up more visual space on the finger than Asschers. They mask warm colors well, but because of their large facets, inclusions may be visible. When shopping for an emerald cut diamond, we recommend prioritizing clarity within the 4 Cs.
Marquise Diamonds
Marquise diamonds are a brilliant-cut shape with symmetrical pointed ends. Marquise is a less common shape that is gaining popularity for its striking silhouette.
Like oval and emerald diamonds, marquise shapes take up more visual space on the finger compared to others. The elongated shape is also flattering on many finger types. Like other elongated types, marquise diamonds can have varying proportions, so it’s important to look at multiple diamonds to find your preferred look.
Pear Diamonds
Pear diamonds are a brilliant-cut style with a teardrop shape featuring one pointed end. Like ovals, pears are susceptible to the bow-tie effect.
Pear shaped diamonds are flattering for smaller hands, and are commonly worn with the point towards the fingertip to elongate the finger. Pears can also be worn in the opposite direction, or an East-West orientation (like in the photo above!) for a unique, eye-catching appearance.
Cushion Diamonds
Cushion cut diamonds have brilliant-cut facets, a square or rectangular shape, and rounded corners that give them their signature shape. Cushions are known for hiding inclusions well, and for having excellent fire, colorful sparkles produced by light refracting off the facets.
Cushions can vary more widely than other shapes. Old mine cuts are a type of antique cushion cut stone that was developed in 18th century Europe and features a rounded edge and hand-cut facets. Some modern cushion cuts feature an extra row of facets, giving these diamonds a “crushed ice” appearance.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know what diamond shape to choose?
If you’re shopping for an engagement ring or other jewelry gift for your partner, the best way to know is always to ask them. If you want to keep it a surprise, consider their personal style. The classic choice is a round brilliant cut, but cushion, oval, and emerald are also popular, and pear and marquise diamonds have striking silhouettes.
What diamond shape sparkles the most?
Round diamonds are the most sparkly diamond shape. Cushion cuts are less sparkly than round diamonds, but they are known for having a brilliant rainbow fire.
What are inclusions?
Inclusions are trace amounts of minerals and other imperfections within the diamond. They are measured via the Clarity scale within the 4 Cs. Inclusions can be visible, though many are imperceptible to the naked eye. Brilliant-cut diamonds tend to hide inclusions better than step-cut.
What is the most affordable or expensive diamond shape?
Round brilliant diamonds are the most expensive diamond shape. The most affordable diamond shape varies, but oval and cushion shapes tend to be more price-friendly. This is because more of the raw diamond can be preserved when cutting these shapes compared to round brilliants.
Finding Your Perfect Diamond Shape
Determining your favorite diamond shape online can be a challenge. If you’re ready to take the next step, make an appointment with your local jeweler so you can see different stones in real life. You’ll be able to compare size, color, ratios, visualize the stone within a setting, and more.
At Sarah O., we’re passionate about helping you find jewelry you can love for a lifetime. Make an appointment with our expert jewelers to bring your dream piece to life today.
Get more engagement and wedding advice, diamond and gemstone guides, and more on the Sarah O. blog.
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